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Fibre Metal SuperEight hard hats are the most sophisticated head protection system available. They have a padded headband for exceptional comfort. The exclusive smooth crown design contains a technically advanced suspension with eight load-bearing points to stabilize and balance the hard hat during everyday wear. On impact the SuperEight Impact Energy Control System dissipates force by reducing it to smaller increments and spreading it over a greater area. All Fibre-Metal SuperEight Thermoplastic protective hats and caps are SEI certified to ANSI Z89.1-2003.
While many of the offshore oil rig jobs are physical in nature, many of the rig companies go out of their way to make sure your time spent onboard is an enjoyable one. For instance employees may find themselves living in accommodation wings that meet 4 or 5 star hotel standards - despite the fact that you a living in the middle of the ocean. While you are on board the company will usually meet all food, board and laundry expenses, along with travel and transfer costs.
There are a large number of offshore oil rig jobs that are available. The range of employment opportunities include:
Driller, Derrickman, Shakerhand or Mudman, Toolpusher, Floormen or Roughnecks, Motorman, Assistant Driller, Crane Operator, Roustabouts, Cleaner/Painter, Storekeeper, Mechanic/Electrician, Sub Sea Engineer, Rig Mechanic, Rig Electrician, Rig Welder, Barge Engineer, Ballast Controlman or Watchstander, Captain and Chief Engineer, Rig Medic and Safety Man.
Most offshore oil rig jobs call for a 14/21 day rotation that means you work for 14 days and have 21 off. This equates to you having approximately 3/5 of the year off on holiday.
In the offshore oil rig industry, there are opportunities for drilling employment and travel to countries such as: Saudi Arabia, Nigeria, the United States, Kuwait, United Arab Emirates, Venezuela, Mexico, Russia, Norway, China, Canada and the United Kingdom.
Typically salaries for roustabouts and roughnecks (drill deck workers) are approximately US 0 per day. Annual salaries work out to be approximately US ,000.
More specialized jobs such as that of Driller is likely to make around ,000 per annum, which Toolpushers, Drill Leaders and Supervisors are likely to earn around the US ,000 - 0,000 mark per year.
Entry level positions typically make between US ,000 - US ,000 per annum. Trades, technical and professional positions will likely earn between US ,000 - US 0,000 per annum.
Life Offshore
- You will be issued with safety boots hard hat safety glasses and coveralls.
- Keep a good attitude and be focused on why you wanted to work offshore.
- There are smoking rooms at various places on a rig where safety matches will be supplied.
- For meals you take off your work gear and eat in the galley.
- You may have to work a night shift or two as an oil rig is a 24 hour operation.
- Don't upset the radio operator, medic or chef. Helicopters, medical attention and food are most important.
Aboard an oil rig every piece of lifting equipment has a color code on it - this is an indication that it was tested as safe to use on the last lifting equipment check. Only items with the current color code on them should be used.
When working in the petroleum industry, don't bring alcohol, illegal drugs, weapons (of any description) including knives, flammable items, lighters and matches (safety matches will be provided in the smokers room) when working on energy jobs.
If working aboard an offshore rig, remove batteries from electrical equipment before checking in you luggage. If you are to be transported by helicopter your mobile phone may be taken from you before you board the helicopter.
A number of people working aboard oil rigs work are in support roles such as catering crew and doctors, etc. The following is an outline of what may be expected for doctors or medics. Because of the physical size of rigs, many of these types of roles are sole charged and one must be able to make do with the facilities and resources at end. In the case of doctors or medics based aboard oil rigs, it may be necessary to treat patients suffering from a huge variety of ailments and illnesses. Issues can arise as a lot of the workers aboard oil rig installations may speak foreign languages, so it is critical for the medical personnel to be able to quickly and effectively diagnose the problem. Generally medical staff will work one of two shifts, either day or night. Their role can often also include checking and maintaining stocks of emergency supplies, testing and verifying drinking water supplies are clean, as well as inspecting both raw and cooked foods from the kitchen. They are also often responsible for conducting weekly first aid seminars for all workers aboard the oil rig.
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The Cat in the Hat has something mysterious in his hat! Can you guess what it is? In this fun, multisensory exploration game, one player hides a household object of their choice inside the hat and the other players use questions, clues, and the hat's fun interactive exploratory features to discover what it is. Is it something we eat? What room does it belong in? Not sure? Try feeling the hat with your elbows, poking your finger through a hole, or looking at the object through the magic crystalline window. Children will enjoy hours of creative fun with this innovative game!
A Pan Am Flight Attendant costume is a great choice for Halloween. There are a variety of Pan Am costumes available and in a variety of colors. Whether you want a costume that's short or long, or pink or black, there is one out there for you. Don't worry about these costumes being too revealing: while there are plenty of sexy costumes out there, modest Pan Am costumes can be found, too.
The Basics
The core of the costume starts with the flight attendant uniform. You can either go with a typical suit that can be purchased at any department store, or you can purchase a costume specifically for a flight attendant. The most popular choices are navy or black, however, you can go with a color a little more eye-catching and unique like pink or red.
Flight Attendant Accessories
Once you have the basic pieces picked out, you'll need to accessorize. The typical accessories that complement a Pan Am flight attendant costume are:
Neck Scarf
Hat
Flight Attendant pin
The neck scarf is usually a simple fabrication and often sheer. Popular color choices are red or navy; the scarf is typically tied once around the neck.
The Pan Am hat is a pill box style, meaning that it fits very close to the head and is sturdy. The color often matches the color of the main dress or suit, however, you can contrast this color if you'd like it to stand out.
No Pan Am Flight Attendant costume is complete without a "wings" pin. While not often seen on today's stewardesses, they used to always wear a winged pin. Since the Pan Am costume replicates a stewardess from the 1960s, this pin is necessary to complete the outfit.
Shoes
A variety of shoes can be worn with this costume. Popular styles are boots that reach to the calf or even past the knee, however, this look is not for the modest! Those wanting a more demure look can wear a low heel or even flats. The shoe color is usually matched to the costume. If white hose are being worn, then white shoes are also acceptable.
Hair
A 1960s hairstyle must be worn to complete the costume. Typical styles are worn large and voluminous, such as the bouffant. If that style is too complicated to wear, a simple ponytail or bun can complete the look easily. Use pins to keep the hair in place; it's helpful to pin your hat to the hair, as well.
Copyright: 9/25/2011, Lauren Engelman, U.S.A.
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The Fireman's Hat by Toysmith is great fun for little make believers. This helmet has an adjustable interior to fit various sizes of little heads. It is simply a toy and not meant to provide any safety protection.
Did you know that you can fix a leaking shower faucet and save hundreds of gallons of water a year? Most people just think of a dripping faucet as an annoyance and don't realize how much precious water is being wasted one drop at a time. The good news is that almost anyone with a few basic hand tools can learn how to fix most dripping faucets.
Let's start with the basics. Faucets have one primary purpose, to allow the water in your pipes to be used in a controlled manner. This means that they have to open to allow water out of the pipes and close to keep water in the pipes. Not rocket science, right? The closing part is what we want to concentrate on here.
There Are Two Basic Faucet Designs
Faucets drip when they fail to completely trap the water in the pipes. Most faucets use one of two basic methods to stop the water flow. Some, primarily older designs, use rubber or neoprene washers which tighten against a "seat" and block the flow of water. Drips from these faucets are addressed by replacing the washers and/or seats. We'll talk about how to do that in a minute. Most other faucet designs involve some sort of cartridge. Some people call these "washerless" faucets. Repairing newer style water faucets like these usually involves replacing the cartridge(s).
Washers And Seats
Older faucet designs often use washers to block the water and keep it in the pipes. Tightening the handle compresses the washer against a "seat" and seals the opening, thus stopping the water flow. If you need to do a bathtub faucet repair on a three handle wall faucet you probably have this type. You will also run into this style if you need to fix a leaking shower faucet hat has two handles. Many sink and lavatory faucets also use washers. One way to tell whether or not your faucets use washers is to see if the handle gets harder to turn as you turn it off. If turning it really tight stops the drip, this probably, but not always, means that you have washers. If you do have a dripping faucet that has washers, the basic repair process is very similar whether you need to know how to repair a shower faucet,repair a leaking tub faucet or fix a dripping sink faucet. There is, however, one important difference.
Bathtub Faucet Repair
The one critical thing to remember when fixing a leaky bathtub faucet is that you will have to turn the water off to the entire house before removing any parts other than the outer trim pieces. If you're not sure which pieces are trim, just turn the water off first just in case. Once you have turned off the main water to the house you can begin taking things apart. There are lots of different brands and designs of faucets out there and they all come apart a little differently, so you will have to sort of feel your way through.
Removing The Trim
The first step is to remove the handles. This is usually done by removing a cap to expose the handle screw and then removing the screw. Next, remove the handle. This may require a little finesse, as the handles sometimes get stuck in place. One trick is to place the handles of a pair of channel lock pliers behind the valve handle, one on each side, and tap evenly on the handle to nudge it loose. If this doesn't work you can buy a special tool to remove handles but these tools are sometimes hard to find and usually a little patience is all you need to do the trick.
After he handles are off, there is usually some sort of sleeve over the stem itself. This typically has to come off too. Once again, there are many different configurations. One popular design uses threaded plastic tubes to connect the trim sleeve with the valve. Other types have the sleeve threaded directly onto the valve. You will have to figure this step out before you can proceed. If you can determine what brand valve you have there is a good chance of finding instructions on-line.
Now For The Root Of The Problem
OK, so you have removed both the handles and any remaining trim sleeve from the valve. Now you are ready to get to the root of the problem, your valve stem. The washer is almost always at the other end of the valve stem from the handle. Usually the stem is threaded into the valve body and you will just need to unscrew it to remove it. Here's a tip. Stick the handle back on for a second and open the valve half way. This relieves pressure on the stem and makes it easier to unscrew. Now you just need to make sure you are loosening the correct nut.
Lots of valves have a packing nut around the stem. It is usually a little smaller and just in front of the actual connection with the valve body. The packing nut's purpose is to squeeze some special packing material around the stem to prevent water from leaking around the stem when the valve is in use. Loosening the packing nut won't help you, you need to get your wrench on the actual connection to the valve body. By the way, a deep socket is often the only tool that will work to remove the valve stem.
Removing The Valve Stem
The easiest way to make sure you have the correct nut is to see if there is a gap opening up between the nut and the valve body as you loosen the nut. The valve stem itself will also usually turn when you have the right one. If you have loosened the packing nut by mistake, don't worry, you will adjust it before you are finished anyway. Go ahead and remove both stems and keep up with which one is which, it matters on many valves.
After you have the stems out you should be able to find the washer on the "inside" end. If it is nicked, torn or brittle it is likely the cause of your drip. Even if it looks brand new, go ahead and replace it. You've already come this far. You can get replacement washers at almost any hardware store. Sometimes you may want to replace the whole stem, especially if the handle end is stripped out. It's best to just take the stem with you to the store and see if you can match it up. Most Do It Yourself stores have replacement stems for many popular brands. If your valve has a center diverter valve to switch the waterfrom the tub spout to the shower head the same process applies. Many times it is easier to replace the diverter stem than to repair it. This really depends on the design of the stem.
How Are Your Seats?
One more thing to check is the seats. These are the part of the valve body that the washer tightens up against to stop the water flow. If you can get your finger inside the valve, feel of the seats and see if they feel rough. If so, it would be best to replace them if you can get them out. The inside of the seats, which is where the water flows through when the valve is open, usually have either a hex or square recess. Special seat wrenches are used to remove the seats. You can usually get these wrenches at the same place you get the other parts and they're not expensive. You just stick the wrench through the seat and unscrew it. The replacement seats screw back in the same way, just put a little pipe dope on the threads before you install it.
Put It All Back Together
Once you've figured out what needs to be replaced and have done that, you just need to put everything back together. If your valve has packing nuts don't put the trim back on until you have turned the water back on. Once the water is on, go ahead and stick the handle on for a second and open the valve. Make sure no water is leaking around the stem. If it is leaking, with the handle opened half way, snug down the packing nut until the leak stops. Easy does it. If you get it too tight the handle will be hard to turn. Now finish installing the trim pieces and you are done.
Repairing Newer Style Water Faucets
If you have a newer, "washerless" type valve the repair process is similar, but usually easier. Many of these type valves use a self contained cartridge. If the valve starts to drip, just replace the cartridge and you're done. You still need to turn the water off and remove the handles and trim. The cartridge is usually held in place by a retaining nut on the valve body or, in the case of most Moen valves, by a retaining clip. Simply remove the cartridge and put another one in it's place. If your hot and cold are backwards when you finish, turn the water back off, pull the cartridge back out, turn it over 180 degrees and re-install it.
Delta Style Valves
One other common design that is considered "washerless" was made famous by Delta and copied by several other makers. It uses little "cup" seals that fit over springs recessed in the back of the valve body. The springs press these "seals" against the cartridge and regulate the flow through little tapered openings in the cartridge. If you have one of these and it's dripping, changing these springs and seals will usually correct it. Here's a tip. Once you have the cartridge out of the way, insert a phillips screwdriver into the seal and pop both the seal and spring out. Stick the new ones on the end of the screwdriver to help guide them into place. This is especially helpful if you don't have long slender fingers.
Delta, and a few imitators, also have a faucet design that uses a ball instead of a cartridge. This is not as common in tub or shower valves but there are plenty of them out there. The springs and seals are the same but there are lots more o-rings an parts to deal with. The good news is that these parts are readily available. While it's a little more complicated than learning how to repair a Moen kitchen faucet, which is a piece of cake, it is still easier than working with most washer type faucets.
These Techniques Work In The Kitchen Too
Armed with the knowledge you've gained in this article you now not only know how to repair a shower faucet and to repair a leaking tub faucet, but you can apply these skills to many other faucets as well. After fixing a leaky bathtub faucet, stopping a dripping outside hose faucet will be a breeze. The techniques that you will use to complete a "washerless" bathtub faucet repair can be used when repairing newer style water faucets of all kinds. Whether you have an old dripping tub faucet or a newer kitchen faucet that just won't quite shut off you can now fix it. So put these new skills to use, roll up your sleeves and stop that drip!
Copyright 2008 Bryan Stevens
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